Q: Can my factory speakers handle a high-powered CD receiver?
A: Your factory speakers should have no problem at all handling the output from one of our high-powered in-dash CD receivers, but there are limits to their performance. Turn up your new radio with the car sitting still, make a note of the volume level at which your factory speakers start to distort, and avoid cranking the radio up past that point. Speaker performance is critical to listening enjoyment, so we recommend adding quality, aftermarket speakers as soon as you can, so that you can really take full advantage of the big, rich sound your new receiver has to offer.

Q: What if I want to listen to my iPod or other MP3 player with a new CD receiver?
A: Many new CD receivers have built in iPod controls, tied to a USB input on the front or rear of the receiver — plug in your iPod and you're ready to go. These USB inputs will also let you plug in thumb drives or other USB storage devices loaded with music files. A further number of receivers will accept an iPod adapter that adds that capability to the receiver. A majority of receivers also offer auxiliary inputs. You can plug almost any audio device into these receivers with a simple patch cord. Remember, with an "aux in" connection, you won't have control of your iPod or other player from the receiver, but it's a simple, easy way to enjoy your player's music library when you're on the road.

Q: How much power does my factory system have?
A: While we don't have exact power ratings for the systems in specific vehicles, we can tell you that factory systems have traditionally been lower power units of about 3 to 5 watts RMS (continuous) power. In recent years, however, we have seen some higher-powered factory stereos. Bear in mind that, for example, the 100-watt factory system described by your car dealer probably consists of 4 channels of 25 watts peak power. This translates to roughly 10 watts RMS (continuous) watts x 4 — substantial power, but a far cry from the power ratings of most current aftermarket CD receivers. Even if your factory system seems relatively powerful, there are still benefits to going with an aftermarket CD receiver. These advantages typically include better overall specs, built-in features like Bluetooth and iPod controls, MP3/WMA?AAC file playback from disc, improved FM reception, more extensive tone control, easier (and less expensive) integration with other equipment such as disc changers and amplifiers, and the enhanced reliability you can expect from a recognized audio brand name.

Q: What do I need to hook up my amp? Do I need to buy anything?
A: It depends on what you're hooking your amp to. If you're hooking it up to a factory car stereo, you either need a line-out converter to step down the output of the deck to a low-level signal or an amplifier with speaker-level inputs. If you are adding the amp to a system featuring a deck with RCA preouts, all you need for signal transfer is a run of shielded cable with RCA connections. Either way, you will need a heavy-duty power wire (with a fuse or circuit breaker) and a ground wire of the same size. The size of the wire you need depends on the size of the amp you're installing. A great option to simplify matters is to buy a prepackaged amp install kit designed for the size of the amp you want to install. You'll also need some heavy-duty speaker wire to pass the amplified signal to the speakers or subwoofer that you're powering with the amp. Finally, you'll also need a small gauge remote-turn-on wire that leads from your deck's turn-on lead to the amp's remote terminal. This wire will turn your amp on when your radio receives power.

Q: How much power does it take to get good bass from my sub?
A: When matching up an amplifier to a subwoofer, it's important to look at continuous power. Many subwoofers and amplifiers are rated at both continuous and peak power; however, continuous power is the best indicator of what your gear can really handle. Try to match the continuous (or RMS) power rating of the sub to an amplifier with a similar continuous (or RMS) power rating. It is actually better (for the amp and the sub) to have too much amp and run it below its maximum output than to try and push a sub with an amp that is a little underpowered. Using an underpowered amp causes it to clip, which causes distortion that can damage your sub and amp.

Q: I like my factory stereo, but would like to add a CD changer; do I have to go to the dealership?
A: Nope, it is fairly easy to add an aftermarket CD changer to any factory stereo (and it's a lot more economical than going to the dealership). Many of our CD changers and new MP3 hard drive devices can be hooked up to a simple RF modulator that will broadcast your music via a set FM station on your stereo. Most of them come with the modulator that you need and a wired remote with display (or sometimes even a wireless remote). Those that do not can be used with an RF mod that you purchase separately. That way you can keep your factory stereo and get mass music storage without a trip to the dealership.

Q: I'm looking at speakers, and their efficiency ratings are only a little different. Does this rating even matter?
A: Efficiency is one of the most important specs to look at when you buy a speaker or subwoofer. You want to get the sound that you can, right? Then you want an efficient speaker. For every 3dB of difference, the amount of wattage that you need to play at the same volume doubles. For example, if all other things are equal, a subwoofer with an 89dB efficiency rating needs 200 watts of power to play at the same volume that a subwoofer with an efficiency rating of 91dB with only 100 watts going to it. By choosing an efficient sub, you squeeze every bit of bass possible from your amplifier.